February 11, 2022
I’ve probably mentioned this before (20 times!), but since we’ve all moved into 1 apartment together, my ONLY real issue is that my closet isn’t conveniently placed, nor organized.
And I, of course, really don’t have buckets of time to work on it!
My plan is to get rid of things that are no longer appropriate for what I do every day, and to have a good plan for what I purchase.
I’m also moving more and more toward Urban Organic as a style mantra, so I’m trying to buy clothes with better fabric, with less synthetic content, and that are made somewhere humane…
Big goals!
Initially, what would be the most help to me is to have a solid Cluster of 9 garments (either 3 outfits, or 27, depending on how you look at it!). When I think of “uniform,” I’m NOT thinking of something that you wear 365 days a year. This is more like a uniform that you have to wear to work…
So, I started by thinking about what I wear the most – my favorite outfit, that I grab and put back on as soon as all elements are laundered…
black wool & cotton shirt – 4 Objects; black turtleneck – Lands’ End; blue jeans – L.L.Bean; boots – Blondo
The black shirt is key here – the quality of it, the story behind the company 4, and the way I feel when I wear it. Everything else in my closet is now measured against the quality of this shirt!
So, after quite a bit of pondering, and some serious budget study, I chose to buy the same shirt in the other 2 available fabrics; this is where my uniform for the next 3 or 4 months begins:
Chambray shirt – 4 Objects; ivory linen & cotton shirt – 4 Objects; black wool & cotton shirt – 4 Objects
From here, I’m in good shape – I shopped my closet and found the perfect things to wear with these shirts:
ivory turtleneck – Lands’ End; black turtleneck – Lands’ End; black & ivory striped turtleneck – J.Crew; birch jeans – Lands’ End; blue jeans – L.L.Bean; knit cords – L.L.Bean
Now one would logically choose their accessories for this little Uniform Cluster, depending on how much time one has to get dressed each morning, how much one enjoys playing with accessories, and how much variety one needs or desires within the confines of a uniform.
My accessories are more or less like these:
black round stud earrings – Dean Davidson; onyx hoop earrings – Madewell; watch – Olivia Burton; plaid scarf – Allsaints; blue tit brooch – Fable England; black scarf – Nordstrom; loafers – Sam Edelman; boots – Blondo
I wear 4 earrings at a time – I have a collection of small black star earrings that I accent from time to time with a dangling star earring. Or 2…
But the idea is much like what I show here – earrings that go with all of the clothes, and with each other. A woman who only wears 2 earrings could easily wear 1 of the studs and 1 of the hoops, right?
When I assemble all of this together, a feeling of peace comes near to me. Within my line of sight, at least…
On other days, I might wear things from another Uniform Cluster, of tee shirts, cardigans and pants. Having these 2 silhouettes in mind, and having 2 Uniform Clusters sorted out in my closet, makes life just a bit easier!
What might another Uniform Cluster look like?
How about a woman who has to go into her office once or twice a week, and who has decided to send HER dress shirts to the cleaners, just as a man would do?
She’s also going to wear grey pants and skirts, much as a man might do…
But THEN… pretty cashmere sweaters! She’s sufficiently successful that she needn’t worry that someone will treat her like a little girl, or like a “sweater girl.”
Some floral scarves, lovely earrings, a watch, brooch, and shoes – she’s ready!
Shell pink cashmere sweater – L.L.Bean; pink stone earrings – Bling Jewelry; dusty wisteria cashmere sweater – J.Crew; silver floral earrings – Kate Spade; lilac mist cashmere sweater – L.L.Bean; pink roses scarf – Dolce & Gabbana; white shirts – Lands’ End; purple scarf – Aspinal of London; alloy grey knit pants – L.L.Bean; watch – Olivia Burton; pleated skirt – Max Mara; berries brooch – The Met Store; dark grey heather pants – L.L.Bean; steel grey pumps – Calvin Klein; silver loafers – Aerosoles
I really want to do more of these – I see this idea as quite helpful for packing, shopping, closet sorting…
Wardrobes are, indeed, a process!
love,
Janice
p.s. Nine years ago, I was getting dressed from my Project 333. That’s still a GREAT project for looking at what’s in your wardrobe in a fresh way… I have a worksheet available to help you sort your 33 items – send me a note!
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Everything different but the same. You have a unified series of shapes that work together but are all different colours in each strata so that no two outfits of the 27 are the same and yet there is enough colour uniformity that all the options work. I can’t remember when you did it, but this harks back to series on colour and proportion you did – just with a different, floating-feeling set of clothes.
I do like the colours of the second set, but I think they’re following a slightly different set of rules that I have seen here.
Oh yes – AGES ago I looked at every possible combination of black, white and beige. If I can find that post (ha!) I will link to it…
hugs,
Janice
…and in the meantime, Janice, your grateful readers will help you out when we can!
If this is the one you’re thinking of, I linked to this series on my own blog just last week (in my outfit formula post) so I have it to hand!
https://www.theviviennefiles.com/2015/04/color-and-proportion-how-color-affects.html/
Also:
https://www.theviviennefiles.com/2015/04/color-and-proportion-step-2-adding.html/
https://www.theviviennefiles.com/2015/04/color-and-proportion-step-3-adding.html/
https://www.theviviennefiles.com/2015/04/color-and-proportion-step-4-some.html/
That’s amazing! I really need to index all of my posts, some day, in my spare time…
hugs,
Janice
Thanks, Sally. I had never seen these posts. And thanks Janice. Very interesting weekend reading.
Great strategy. As much as I love the original common core capsule, I find it hard to translate to my present life and style. I love chinos and Oxford shirts, but to me they are so last century. That might not be everyone’s situation or outlook. What you have selected really modernizes that idea. And thanks for introducing organic urban style. I live a sheltered life. I would be interested in seeing more of these little groups as well as your other cluster of T, sweater and pants.
Sandy B
Really, chinos are out? Here I’ve been hoping losing weight would get me into the pair in my closet! Me and Rick Steves…
The very fact that something is “out” is reason enough for me to embrace it! I’m not fond of trends, nor of fashion dictates…
hugs,
Janice
It probably dates me that I think of the cotton chinos as “you know, just normal pants.” Most of my pants these days have stretch in them, but I still find a place for a pair of olive cotton chinos in my wardrobe…I just don’t style them like I did in 1999. Observing a core Common Wardrobe now would probably have thin black leggings worn as pants.
This.
Your common core capsule was the foundation of my back-to-the-office cluster that I put together earlier this year. It made sense for a three month gig with a client who took notice of who was and wasn’t in the office the minimum 3 day “hybrid” schedule.
Since then (new client, working 100% remote) I tweaked the capsule (fleece is my winter WFH topper of choice) and I’m set.
Sadly, I had to give up my cotton turtlenecks. For some reason, my neck and décolletage have become really sensitive, so I had a couple converted to crew necks and let the rest move on. (What to do with my scarf collection now???)
Off to look at your chambray shirt source – that’s the one piece I have searched for but not found good fits for me…..
I am also challenged by denim and chambray. Denim shirts feel uncomfortable. Chambray shirts are often made of Lyocell which is a material that makes me squirm. My compromise would be a looser fit soft cotton shirt in a ‘denim’ or ‘chambray’ colour. I’ve yet to find one of those too! However, it’s not essential as I have plenty of other blue tops and shirts to wear.
I have one of those Lyocell denim shirts you mention. Funny thing; I just loaded it into the washer to clean and donate. I bought a chambray colored shirt from JCrew that Janice presented a couple of months ago. It feels nice.
Your outfits look comfortable and warm. I like the idea of creating uniforms for specific activities or events – everyday, clothes, country walks and nature conservation, sportswear, smart/occasion wear.
I have noticed when I get dressed, my daily outfit choice usually begins with choosing the top or sometimes the jumper I’d like to wear. These are always in neutral or accent colours and invariably textured or occasionally patterned. Then I build the outfit, shoes and accessories around it.
My winter ‘uniform’ is patterned or textured top, tee, poloneck or blouse in accent colours, with neutral or accent cotton trousers or cords, topped with a neutral or accent (sometimes patterned) jumper or cardigan. When it gets warmer, I’ll keep the cotton trousers but swap cord for linen. Tops, tees and blouses will have 3/4, roll-up or short sleeves, the necklines will be lower and the materials more natural, jumpers and cardigans will be thinner with round or v-neck, long or 3/4 length sleeves.
Today though is a gym day so my outfit will be turquoise tops and grey joggers with bright pink and multi-coloured trainers. My alternative pilates uniform is plum tops and dark blue joggers. Footwear is either trainers or fleece-lined burgundy ankle boots.doesn’t matter because I take them off in class. In the summer, I’ll swap the burgundy/dark blue set for purple top and thin navy stretch trousers.
I’m really going to give up on denim jeans. I have never found a fit that suits me properly and the material feels stiff and heavy to wear. Cords are warmer and cotton trousers come in a myriad of colours including ‘denim’!
I’m not sure that my clothes would ever be fully organic but I do believe in sustainability and longevity within my wardrobe. I can wear most of my tops and trousers all year round. Most of my jumpers/cardigans for six to nine months.
The lockdowns have broken a cycle of regular shopping trips. I still enjoy wandering round the clothes shops to see what trends and colours are developing. But I can walk out without purchasing a single thing. I go home and shop my wardrobe instead or browse a charity shop instead.
My only real temptation is costume jewellery, particularly as collectors and vintage fairs have begun again. Charity shops are also a source of good jewellery and named brands at bargain prices. Even so, something still has to leap out at me before I consider it.
Perhaps the time has come to do a proper audit of my jewellery, so that I know where the real gaps are. This Sunday is going to be a filthy wet day, so whilst my husband is in the lounge watching England beat Italy (hopefully) in the Six Nations rugby, I can be in the dining room organising my jewellery. Happy day all round ?
Like Beth T I have also given up on jeans and for the same reasons. Also like Beth T I can wear many of my clothes almost year round. My chronic dilemma is pants for warmer weather. I always hope this is the year I’ll find an answer. I also start with the top and go from there. I have found my uniform is generally pants, a top and a topper – so three items. Right now it’s cords for the bottom, usually a shirt, and then either a T under the shirt (or a thinner sweater) or a sweater over the shirt. And a scarf – which is easy to have on or off depending on how hot or cold I am at any given moment. It dawned on me yesterday how utterly tired I am of my purple and red, so have been wearing a lot of gray, green, and light blue. Unfortunately, I don’t have a lot of accessories for any of those colors as they are recent arrivals to the wardrobe. It’s a process.
I am also reminded of the idea of think, plan and get the best quality you can afford. Something you love. I too often hit sales and get something close to what I have in mind but it’s never quite right. I wear it grudgingly for a season and then donate it. So not really a savings.
Sandy B
My uniform is boring. I wear a sweater with jeans. I don’t like collared shirts or turtlenecks. Although I live in a very cold climate, I don’t like layering. If I wear a cardigan, I wear it buttoned as a sweater (I usually just put a cami underneath). I can’t wear wool or cashmere, so I try to stick with cotton. I do have some synthetics from the past that I still wear. I don’t wear scarves anymore, they bother me. I only wear small stud earrings. It’s hard to make my winter wardrobe interesting. I have better luck with my warm weather wardrobe.
I LOVE this! I could see “uniform clusters” for a variety of activities – work, work from home, workout, hiking, errands. Finally a gameplan I think I can live with. Thanks for sharing this great idea!
I love the idea of buying multiples of the same perfect garment, but in different colors. Yes! Love your uniform idea. Makes dressing so much easier! Good work,!
Thank you for introducing me to 4. I prefer clothing made from natural fibers and want to support sustainable, ethical brands as part of the goal of making more deliberate, conscious choices for my wardrobe & in general. Please let us know your thoughts on the shirts you have purchased after you have had a chance to wear & properly assess them.
Please do this when warmer weather rolls around. So you have 6 months according to IL, WI weather LOL
Well, depending on the year, this (maybe swap out tee shirts for the turtlenecks?) should do me for about 7 months! And then I need to be nearly nude the other 5 months…
But I definitely want to revisit this idea; I’m thinking that Uniform Clusters could be an “every Monday” post after the Weekly Timeless Wardrobe has ended!
hugs,
Janice
I think this idea is a brilliant one. Looking forward to it ?
Yes please!! Thanks again Janice. I would love to see a post like this every Monday. Maybe because is what I did this year to go to work 2-3 times a week. I’ll just say it works magic!
I too would be very interested.
Sounds like a great idea. I’ve always liked clusters of clothes, jewellery and accessories in my wardrobe. It’s a safe way of dressing but then if a piece gets damaged, torn or worn out, you can rearrange the clusters and come up with something entirely new.
Janice,
I would love to see you do more Cluster posts ! And the above reference to your series of posts on color and proportions back in 2015 taught me so much about my own specific preferences, based upon my body type !
Happy Valentine’s Day to you and your Beloved !
…anywhere along the Great Lakes, actually !
Your post resonated with me. I’m trying to buy from “slow fashion” sources and to have fewer pieces of clothing. Thanks for suggesting a new source for clothing from 4.
I’m the odd duck – my year-‘round uniform is a straight skirt with a blouse or a sweater…often with a second layer, depending on the weather. Sometimes the skirt is denim and the top is just a long-sleeved tee and other times the skirt is a pointe knit with a slightly dressy blouse or a semi-dressy sweater.
It’s interesting to see how different our uniforms are but they work nonetheless.
Oops….”ponte knit”. (Drat the autocorrect!)
I’ve been experimenting with different theories to sort out my wardrobe. So far nothing has worked out well for me. I love the idea of a uniform within a color range. Would love to see more of these examples. (Navy, Basil Green and Camel would be great!)
Enjoy all of these comments – thank ladies.
I cannot believe the timing of this post. Just yesterday, I went through my closet (I have a pretty small wardrobe) and tried things on with a new eye. I realized the knit pants I wear ALOT were looking baggy and old. I think over the last few years, the legs have stretched. I realized they made me look older. They are now in my yard work/cleaning clothes drawer. I was drawn to this project as I came to the realization that my style is sporty classic. Straight jeans or hiking type pants with sneakers are my comfort zone and have the look I want to convey. The knit pants were just grabbed by default and weren’t doing anything for me. I also usually wear 100% cotton tops. They just feel good!
Janice! Thank you for the GREENS post Wednesday. How did I miss it? Dad + hospital = not a great day.
My Tree of Life green shirt arrived and I am boldly wearing it today. Such great advice and pointers. This year my goal is to learn. And to trust you (and the VF community) And to enjoy my clothes.
This Uniform post today is timeless. As important for a new job wardrobe – my daughters or a mid-life career change – me.
Thanks so much!
not-as-afraid-of-green
Yes! With Karen. Heck, please start NOW for the southern gals. Did we get 3 days of sub 32° weather?
I love your uniform! I was wondering how you wear the buttons downs. Do you wear them open over the turtlenecks? Do you tuck them in? I find I have trouble with how to style button downs. Leaving them open (which is comfy and sporty) can make me feel frumpy. Wearing them under a sweater feels bulky to me. I would love to actually see pictures of someone wearing these styles if possible. Thank you! I look forward to your posts!
They are usually mostly open – sometimes 1 or 2 buttons buttoned. I feel like I can adjust to the weather every 5 minutes if I want to with the buttons, and with rolling up sleeves. I’m going to shift from turtleneck to long-sleeved tee shirts in March (unless the weather turns mean!), and then probably short-sleeved tee shirts, and then sleeveless tops. I don’t tuck them in because I don’t tuck anything in – I have no waist to speak of. I’m not sure how they will be under sweaters – I have some very roomy sweaters, and a loose, straight sweater vest, which might work well…
hugs,
Janice
Perfect! Thank you so much for your response. I am actually wearing a long chambray button down over leggings and a long sleeve black tee right now with just a couple of buttons buttoned. I also have no waist, so this works best for me.
I am glad to see outfit silhouettes (aka outfit formulas aka uniforms aka…) getting some attention today because I’ve always thought that was a missing element to the capsules. Honing in on the preferred shapes of the garments really makes it easier to have a truly mix-and-matchable capsule.
It’s a bit hard to tell on the screen, but it’s interesting that the top layers in each capsule (big shirts, cashmere sweaters) are the identical item just in different colors but the bottom pieces are different from each other and have potentially different shapes (skinny, straight, gathered waist, etc.). Only the heroine wearing them can know whether those bottom pieces are similar enough to each other in shape and in relation to her body and preferred fit to all work well with the same exact tops layers but it’s not immediately obvious that it would be the case.
I think the capsules on TVF in general must be thinking about including a variety of refinement/dressiness levels more than I do and more certainly than the women I work with do (in our pre-COVID business casual office). Almost every woman in my department had a narrow range of bottom piece shapes that she wore day in and day out…generally 1 or 2 that have something in common, actually. I simply never saw people switching from knit pants to pleated skirt (+ heels!) to trousers from day to day. I was extremely unusual in the fact that I wear a variety of bottom shapes (skinny pants, straight leg pants, trousers, pencil skirt, pleated skirt). I guess this is very workplace/job role (or lifestyle) dependent, but I would expect that settling into uniformity in the bottom pieces is more how women naturally operate, so it’s curious to me to see the opposite in these uniforms.
Owning multiples (i.e., the same item in different colors) often gets a bad rap in StyleBlogLand, but I do it frequently and find it very practical!
My outfit formula/uniform this WFH winter is a pullover sweater, optional collared shirt, optional warm vest, pants or jeans (generally straight leg but sometimes skinny), scarf, and ankle boots.
I switch up my bottoms all of the time. I may wear ponte knit bootcut pants one day, tailored trousers the next, an a-line skirt, a fit-and-flare dress, and skinny jeans to finish the work week. I would say my tops are more “stable” but they also range from button-up shirts to faux-wrap to polos, turtlenecks, tees, and tanks. Finally, my third layer is either a cardigan (traditional, boyfriend, or duster) or a blazer.
Looking at this, no wonder I can’t make capsule wardrobes work for me!
What amazing timing. I just got done collating several lists of vintage ‘wardrobe plans’ mostly 1940s range and the quantity of each piece to see what was a common number. Then bumped it against what I typically reach for and how often by week, month and year. Then looked at Janice’s amazing formula for number of pieces & tweaked to come up with my own perfect wardrobe list. Janice, without your wonderful formulas and capsules, I would still be wondering how to go from wanting a vintage inspired 40s-50s wardrobe to the plan to make it happen. Thanks to you, I know what to add or subtract to bring it to reality. Love the formula and uniform type posts…
In February 2020, this wardrobe concept wouldn’t have worked for me – the Project 333 from nine years ago was my style. But this is 2022 and on March 8, it will be two years since I worked in an office. Even people going to offices report a much more casual style. And with retirement in 2024 or 2025, I’m never going back to an office. So this type of methodology appeals to me. I don’t wear button-front shirts, except perhaps open over a T-shirt or tank top in the summer. I do wear pop-overs or flowy shirts. I also don’t wear crew-neck sweaters; v-neck or cardigans are my style. So I appreciate this as a starting point and will use it as a template. I always love your posts.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again…This is the way of my purchasing. If I find something I like, made well, and suits my capsule, I’ll buy two of each in multiple colors, so I can continue to wear in rotation without interruption when they go to wash. Foundations are Navy and Charcoal Gray for work, Cool Gray and Sand for home/off days, with Sage, Slate Teal, Chambray Blue, and Burgundy as accents.
When I was doing the student teaching portion to become a speech pathologist, my cooperating clinician advocated a uniform. For her it was a turtle neck, slacks, and a blazer. Two of which were always in a matching color. Very professional and it looked great on her. I tried to copy her but somehow I never felt comfortable. It took me many years to realize my uniform could be suited to me. Now that I’m retired, I wear jeans, three quarter sleeve tees, sweater coats, and patterned scarves. Sometimes I wish I looked dressier, but it doesn’t match my lifestyle now and dressier clothes would just clutter my closet. In full disclosure though, I have lots of clothes but fewer colors and styles so that it all works together. Thanks to your blog I’m happier with my wardrobe now than I have ever been.
Shout out to a fellow speechie ! ?
HI Janice,
Those button up shirts are BEAUTIFUL!!! I don’t wear black, but is the linen one a soft cream or is it a stark white? Do you really feel they are worth the price. That’s a big chunk of change for me, but if they will last…. I’d love to hear more about the shirts.
Thanks!
Renee
The white is VERY close to white – I personally will wear mine with either pure white or ivory and not sweat the details on the color! The quality is very good; I’m willing to take on a MUCH higher price for a garment made in Brooklyn; and I’m also assuming that these shirts will eventually be mended. They’re nice enough quality that it will be worth the effort to darn or patch them when the time comes.
If you’re tempted, think it through and take the plunge with just 1 of the shirts – I recommend the black or white because they’re not like other things on the market.
I have to admit – I’m buying from them partly because I think their entire idea is both brilliant and VERY necessary for the health of the planet and the economy!
Let me know what you decide,
hugs,
Janice
My fall/winter pants “uniform” for work has been a no-iron button-up shirt, a cardigan, and a pair of straight-legged trousers. My shoes are loafers, ankle booties, or ballet flats. The pants are solids, the shirts are prints or solids (navy houndstooth, a white with vegetable print, and a white one with small ruffle trim at the cuff and collar), and the cardigans are solid with the same silhouette but two have some details soutache trim on one and small ruffles on another.
My fall/winter dress “uniform” for work is a sleeveless sheath dress over a turtleneck or button-up (with or without the cardigans).
I suppose I am going the opposite direction; I am keeping the same formula but deliberately mixing my silhouettes. As I replaced my pants I got one straight with cuffs, one uncuffed trouser, and one slimmer ankle-length pant. With my turtleneck replacements, I replaced my thin layering-only shirts with styles I can wear as a stand-alone top. When the time comes to replace my cardigans, I will likely keep them neutral and coordinating with the pants, but vary the silhouettes.
I love this, because it’s very customizable. I work from home and have sensory issues, so post-pandemic I just decided that I would stop asking myself to wear uncomfortable pants. My “uniforms” only include sweatpants and jeans for fall, winter and spring, and linen shorts and dresses for summer!
Hi Janice and Everyone! Thanks Janice for this post on a ‘personal uniform style.’ It just so happens that my 21 pc wardrobe challenge for Feb is black/cream/brown/camel. Back in the day when I wore more blazers and skirts I had a ‘winter’ capsule of these colors, and I just got used to wearing them together (with a little copper and rust thrown in). Nowadays my uniform is a turtleneck, long-sleeved tee and sweater (or sweatshirt). The bottoms vary among Lands End sport knit pants to (fleece-lined) leggings to jeans, depending if I am in or out of the house that day. I have very nice skirts and blazers just longing to be worn but that’s usually for travel or professional conferences these days.
Janice,
I would be very interested in your Project 333 worksheet, please ? Thanks !
UNIFORMS: Oh, how we hated them growing up wearing the same clothes for years and years. But, guess what? People seem to gravitate to uniforms for the ease in dressing.
My husband got tired of trying to figure out which shirt goes with which pair of pants. His solution? Blue shirts: striped, solid, checked, plaid; all make his gorgeous blue eyes pop!
For his 70th birthday his coworkers all wore a “Tom” uniform of blue shirt and khaki pants with a stick-on mustache! Totally hilarious.
My uniform has been a t-shirt, cardigan, and jeans or chinos with a scarf or necklace. My huge bust limited my clothing choices. I recently had a breast reduction and am trying to figure out what I can wear now that I have more choices rather than just knit.
I’m so glad to see this post on uniform and cluster dressing. This is just the way my clothing brain works—I really like to buy multiples of the same thing in different colors. I think it has to do with expectation and familiarity. I’ve had good luck with Jungmaven recently, and I like the heavier weight of their hemp blend clothes. Over the years I’ve come to realize that my winter uniform is jeans with a tank and a sweatshirt-like top, occasionally with a vest. There are many nice cuts available in sweatshirt material, many of which I’ve found through this blog (thinking here of the cowl sweatshirts from LLBean which I now own three of in burgundy, grey, and blue). In contrast to some of the other commenters, I’ve gone to denim pants almost completely. Janice helped me figure out that colored denim can be a helpful and comfortable option, and my pants are all now blue or grey denim jeans, mostly skinny to go with boots.
Hi Janice,
I would be very interested I seeing how to arrange the 33 items of clothing. Thank you…
Oh my goodness! Just today I realized that I have a “uniform” for early spring with my 20lb-gained pandemic body: skinny jeans in various colors + a Grayson hero shirt in various colors/patterns + seavee’s sneakers (lots of color/style options) or Hasbeen clogs. Depending on the warmth in my area, I throw a cardigan over the whole thing. Will take a look at your high end shirts!