November 12, 2021
Ah, I’m going to need a second to remind you of the origins of The Common Wardrobe, and why I was so taken with the idea…
I’m sitting on the sidelines of a big party – about 200 people. These lovely young people (mostly) are my co-workers at an international advertising agency. We are in Madrid, or Berlin, or Chicago – it doesn’t matter.
These people are creative. In big bright letters, they are the brightest, most imaginative people I’ve ever known. And when you look at them, you can tell; they wear sweaters that they knit in their spare time, or shoes made by a friend, or a jacket covered with wee patches that they did to cover holes…
But under all of this amazing color, pattern and print, they were almost all wearing some of these clothes:
This held true for years, and when I see people out on the streets today, I still see these 12 garments a LOT. Why these 12?
So I’ve been thinking…
I’m going to think through the role that each of these garments plays in the larger “wardrobe” picture, and then try to replicate a similar wardrobe for my heroine, who loves charcoal grey and all shades of blue…
After pondering her first step – the tee shirts – our heroine is off to a great start:
I often saw the black turtleneck worn in order to highlight beautiful scarves or jewelry… And it is perfect for very cold days. A simple turtleneck, worn under a white shirt, looks surprisingly chic!
Our heroine isn’t mad about black – obviously! – and she really prefers a less “fluffy” sweater; a merino turtleneck is perfect!
Another tee shirt? Well, it’s hard to imagine having TOO many (except for a friend of mine who has over 200!), and adding a long-sleeved version opens up the possibility of a different neckline…
Of course, our heroine wants her tee shirt to be charcoal grey too!
Now, what might be the most important part of this entire wardrobe! (okay, maybe it’s the jeans…) But trust me, if you have a really GOOD cardigan, there are few places where it can’t be worn. This one could go over the dressiest of dresses, or over a tee shirt and jeans for a jaunt to the grocery:
Here again, our heroine can’t quite face the fluffiness of cashmere; she finds the perfect cotton-blend cardigan instead.
Denim shirts – how does anyone live without one now? They are ubiquitous, but everyone seems to find their own way to wear theirs…
Our heroine found a denim shirt that’s a bit lighter colored, longer, and roomier…
I can’t encourage you enough – even if you NEVER wear button-front shirts – try to find one that will work. Petite sizing makes the sleeve length less of an issue than it might have been, and if you watch for a very roomy cut (no darts here!), you may have some luck.
They really are that useful…
Our heroine prefers her white tunic – the neckline looks the same, but she finds that she has more room, and less button gaping, with this:
The blue oxford shirt has always sort of confounded me – one sees them everywhere, they go with so MANY things, but I never have been quite sure what I personally would substitute for it… Pink? Black and white striped? There are LOTS of possibilities…
Our heroine has opted for a shawl-collar top that can be worn UNDER her cardigan, or over any of her tee shirts. Theoretically, she could wear it over her merino turtleneck on a bitter cold day…
Jeans! Of course you can skip these, or substitute, but there are so many options now…
Our heroine was able to find charcoal velvet jeans – not your everyday blue denim!
I have pondered for YEARS the possibility of a pair of beige pants; I’m still waiting for the ones that have whappage… But there’s no denying that they’re versatile!
These are essentially the same pants, just in our heroine’s core dark neutral color!
And finally, black pants. I would be nude (from the waist down!) at least half the time if black pants suddenly all vaporized…
Our heroine, however, does NOT want another pair of pants. She’s got this wardrobe in mind for upcoming holiday trips to visit family, and she knows that she will want to bring a skirt with her. Nothing blindingly dressy, but still something a step up from pants…
So with this wardrobe assembled for her upcoming family visit, what are her outfit options?
Well, pretty numerous, I’d suspect…
Based on my emails, I have a hunch that quite a few of us are going through big changes in our day to day lives… Getting sorted out for just what we need, and what we have, and what we need to find, helps us feel like we have a sense of direction for our fresh new futures.
And this doesn’t just apply to clothes!
love,
Janice
p.s. Ten years ago, back in the FIRST year of The Vivienne Files, I saw a woman who looked lovely…
Sheila says
What great way to end the week – awesome analysis. I believe I fleshed out a common wardrobe way back when I first discovered you. This is a great reminder of what role the various pieces play, and I can’t wait to get home and look at my own common wardrobe and make sure I’ve got all the bases covered. Two more days here in the great state of Texas. Given the weather going on in our home city of Seattle, WA, it’s nice to be here in the sunshine – and mask free for the most part! Have a great weekend everyone. Janice, thank you as always.
Rex says
That Land’s End white tunic might be just the thing to replace an old top in my summer wardrobe. I’ll have to keep an eye out and see if it or something similar is still available next year.
On a side note, are green or pink denim/chambrey tops a thing? I was translating the blue into a soft apple or sage green instead of the blue (the skirt has ended up as a pair of green jumbo cord trousers) and then had to think what colours I’d seen denim tops in.
Beth T says
Hi Rex
You are more likely to find green and pink tops and shirts in linen or cotton. However, you might find a pink or green denim jacket. Lyocel is a softer material and comes in more colours.
I find searching the shopping section on Google or eBay good for garments that are a deemed a bit unusual by manufacturers, such as my continual search for anything purple. H&M always have a very good range of shirts and tops in different colours. Their website is one that Janice has a link to. Some of my friends also find what they want in menswear departments, particularly if they want a looser style shirt.
Hope you find something.
Beth
Sally in St Paul says
Beth, thanks for the reminder on lyocell (aka Tencel) as a button-up shirt fabric. It does tend to be soft, which I appreciate.
TK says
Hi Beth,
I snapped up one of those lands end white tunics – right from the link in Janice’s post. It’s available right now for $19.98!!
AK says
My mind is awhirl with ideas to accessorize this capsule. It’s so easy with grey!
Beth T says
Like Sheila, when I first found TVF, I used the Common Wardrobe and Starting from Scratch to make sure I covered all bases. I’ve then made the CW work for me as my neutrals are dark blues and grey (light to mid grey as charcoal is too overpowering unless it’s a coat).
T-shirts, polo-necks and pull-on tops are so versatile. I do have a lot though I’ve not counted. I have them in short, 3/4 and long sleeves. I have a handful in ivory, light grey, navy and white, but the rest in accent colours or patterned. I wear short sleeve and 3/4 sleeve mostly in warmer weather but the accent colour short sleeve tees I wear under tops and shirts as a base layer in cold weather. Most polonecks are just l cotton jersey but I have a variety of warmer poloneck jumpers to wear as 2nd layers.
Shirts or collared blouses have to be made of soft material or well washed and I like them with fuller sleeves. I like the shawl collared top so something to look out for. I’ve recently found a couple of tops that can be worn on their own or over another top as a thin 2nd layer.
Cardigans – now I really have too many in all my colours and some patterned. I do like wearing them buttoned up 2/3 over a top or tee. In colder weather, I like slouchy cardigans that I can wear several layers underneath. I’ve also got a couple of cardigans/jumpers with collars.
I’m not a great fan of denim as I find it too hot in summer and the styles generally don’t suit me being too tight in the legs. I prefer cotton, linen or jersey trousers in looser styles that come in a myriad of colours.
Likewise, denim and cord shirts don’t suit me bit I like the material for jackets. So I would sub a jacket for the denim shirt. Or a jumper/cardigan with a collar.
I seem to have developed my own ‘uniform’ –
1st layer top or dress – Neutral, accent or pattern. I choose this first, then everything else follows.
Neutral or blended accent bottoms.
2nd layer – neutral, accent or patterned to blend or coordinate with the top, bottoms or dress.
Blending and colour co-ordination are key for me.
Sally in St Paul says
Well done on figuring out your preferences and how you like your outfits to come together. I think that understanding where we stand on things like value contrast and color contrast is critical. Having a color palette is one thing, but knowing how you want that to play out across pieces and outfits is so important.
Gail Finke says
What a great post, which I saw right after raiding my “storage” closet because what I have put out for my fall/winter wardrobe is NOT cutting it. I’ve worn some combinations I love and look good in, but as usual, I have too much black, gray, and navy — colors I love — and not enough accent colors. I assemble it, think it’s fine, and then… yikes! I look like a funeral director or a person in perpetual mourning (by Victorian color standards). I need some oomph. But I realized that I had put away all my spring/summer colors, and my most of my colored winter garments are heavier and so still in storage, which leaves me with… neutrals only. A black sweater and dark indigo jeans look great together. But not all black/gray/navy garments do. Time to reevaluate. I have the basics, now what am I missing?
Abigail says
A few years ago I made the mistake of pulling together too many navy and blue clothes for an extended trip. I tried to gather clothing that would work together and not show dirt or wrinkle. The colorful scarves I carried stayed in my suitcase because the weather stayed hot. The wardrobe was just dreary. A fellow traveler brought her white, pink, and pale yellow jeans and looked so much more appropriate for summer travel.
Sally in St Paul says
Gail, it sounds like your neutral core wardrobe is in great shape, but I hear you about how it can look funereal, especially if you tend toward wearing neutrals that are all medium to dark rather than the higher value contrast black + white, etc., that has its own energy. To cover the fall season between your summer accent colors and winter accent colors, perhaps a French 5 (or two or whatever) in an accent or semi-neutral / colored accent (e.g., burgundy, olive, dark green, teal) would boost the liveliness of your wardrobe. If you aren’t interested in adding color for fall, I would think prints combining the neutrals and/or consider whether your pieces are “interesting”…like textural difference, aspects that make them a more elevated / fun basic rather than a plain jane basic. And then there’s the role of accessorizing in your outfit creation.
Beth T says
I find the inbetween seasons frustrating. Sally’s suggestion is spot-on to introduce five garments that would lift the ‘funereal’ aspect of your wardrobe. The way I did it without going on a shopping spree was to look at my spring/summer garments and my winter garments, and choose those that I could wear in the autumn because they have long sleeves, the material is warm but not heavy, or the patterns are seasonless. My accent autumn colours are shades of light to mid blue, warm pinks, lilac, mid to dark purple, teal, plum and burgundy. The materials are warm, cosy but not too heavy or thick. As it gets colder, I have a bag of thicker jumpers and cardigans. My cotton trousers are swapped for corduroy and velvet. I wear thick tights with skirts and dresses. Most of my clothes can now be worn for two seasons.
Shrebee says
Janice,
In your opening comment on colors of tees, you describe one light neutral and two dark neutrals, yet on my monitor I see light, medium and dark values in the tees. Do you suggest two dark garments because of the season? If we were in a hot season, would you have recommended two light tees ? Just curious as to your thinking !
Janice says
Color choice can be dictated by season, or by personal morphology (I know women who much prefer darker tops to scale back the amount of attention directed to their torso…) or by what’s available when you’re shopping, or by what works best with the rest of your wardrobe. The rules, as you can see, are loose to the point of falling around one’s ankles, metaphorically speaking!
hugs,
Janice
Shrebee says
Got it, thanks ! Enjoy your weekend !
Valla says
Thank you for this! It’s a great opportunity for a clean out and reset. I gravitate mostly to classics and solids, accessorized with scarves. I’ll give a critical eye to the “novelty” tops I have accumulated. Once again, Janice, you seem to have called my name!
Susu says
Sending to my daughters! Only imagine if I had started with this framework for wardrobe building. Sigh. Thank you for posting the Basics often and with the how to explanations.
My personal favorite posts: start with art, travel and any closet taming advice.
Have a lovely autumn!
Patrice says
Janice. I love getting your emails! Your posts are thoughtful, creative, and incredibly helpful. You’re the best! Thank you.
I especially enjoyed this post. I’ve been intrigued by the Common Wardrobe concept since you first presented it, and have pondered how to make it work 100% for me, in a warmer climate, a different color palette, and with a few garment substitutions. I couldn’t ever work it out completely. As always, you thoughtful analysis really nailed the reasons these 12 are universally loved, and provided a wonderful template. Thank you.
I it’s funny how the common wardrobe reminds me of my college wardrobe, when I never felt like, “I never have anything to wear.” Thanks for one of the best posts, ever!
MmeP says
So interesting, and so useful. I assembled my own Common Wardrobe, which is decidedly casual. I’m retired, and I live in jeans, Ts, and fleece or flannel. Excepting flannel shirts, I just realized that I have nothing with a fold-over collar! Evidently collars are not my style. I’m thinking that the high collars of the fleece (vest or cardigan) have completely taken that spot.
Abigail says
Last fall I decided that I am most comfortable in a wardrobe similar to yours, but added some knit corduroy pants from L.L. Bean. I found lined flannel shirts to be so cozy. This year as I am going out a bit more, I need to consider how I can occasionally substitute a sweater for a flannel shirt.
Danielle says
I have maintained these basics ever since you first posted them years ago. But it just occurred to me that (with the exception of the skirt) this is a gender less wardrobe that is mostly changed by choice of accessories, which you did a wonderful series on (which I saved and refer to often even years later). Also very useful for men or people transitioning gender, where clothing choice can be difficult.
Sally in St Paul says
Danielle, YES! Despite having seen TCW so many times here, it never occurred to me until today how friendly it is to people all across the gender spectrum.
Lily says
Danielle, that is a very good observation. These pieces are genderless and, I would add, ageless. I love denim blues and grays. I was looking back at the Winter Lynx post the other day. I am going to be taking a winter vacation to Montreal soon. I would love a post on dressing toasty, yet still stylish.
Ezzy says
This analysis is EPIC. Thanks so much!!!!!!!! With these guidelines, what I’m seeing, is that I have a “common wardrobe” that differs by season and by work vs. casual. (Of course, there is some overlap). My winter, work “common wardrobe” has a lot more color and all short sleeve t-shirts replaced with thin long sleeve v-neck “sweaters” (they are thin enough, I consider them base/ stand alone layers). In summer, they would all be sleeveless, and the long sleeves would shorten up. The common wardrobe is the part that stayed the same month-to-month (within the same season) when I did the 21-piece garde-du-robe. A picture of them would not line up AT ALL with what Janice shows. But the functionality? 100%. I love this kind of “aha” moment – thanks SO much Janice for helping us better understand ourselves. You’re the best!!!
Linda in Arkansas says
These are my favorite posts! I love the thought process involved in your choices! This type post from years ago first helped me with travel wardrobes and then with my everyday wardrobe. Thank you so much for all the time and effort you put into these posts! I appreciate it!!
TK says
Hi Janice,
Happy Friday! I was following the weekly timeless wardrobes for a while but I got tangled up by trying to fit my existing pieces into that template for the whole year and not being set on my core colors etc. I recently went back to the common core, just focusing on those pieces for the current season. Today’s post was most timely!
I plan to work through a new common core fore each season as they arrive. Hopefully by the end of a year cycle I will have my wardrobe sorted out nicely. The only challenge for me at the moment is that I had my heart set on a french 5 in loden green and for the life of me, can’t find much in that particular hue. C’est la vie!
Sally in St Paul says
That shawl collar top is 100% calling my name due to the lovely range of color options and its availability in plus size (definitely not a given with LL Bean). If were a longer bum-covering length, I’d be all over it as a relatively lightweight fall option to wear with skinny pants; I have skinny pants in black, navy, grey, and burgundy for which I would love to pair a longer tunic top like this in black, navy, white, and the “plum grape” colors. It would really round out my wardrobe to support this silhouette long-over-lean that I wear a lot in the fall and spring. This is something for me to keep my eyes open for. I particularly like this top due to the interesting collar that provides some structure and interest for those shoulder season periods when having a nice single-layer top that doesn’t need layering is useful.
Sally in St Paul says
I just did a quick analysis of the four versions of TCW I have seen lately: the original, Janice’s personal version, my personal version (posted on my blog), and today’s heroine’s version. And now I can see why that customization of TCW results in something that is very attuned to a heroine’s preferences but also, frankly, falls a bit flat on the outfit-creation side when compared to the original. Personalization appears to result in a lot fewer colors in the capsule!
The original has 7 neutrals, Janice’s has 3 neutrals, mine has 3 neutrals, and today’s heroine’s has 3 neutrals + 1 accent. (Mine was even more hampered by the fact that functionally, navy and a medium to dark blue denim are more like 1 or 1.5 neutrals than 2.) I think it’s easy to underestimate the variety in outfits you get from something as simple as “that one grey T” or “that one light blue shirt” or “that one pair of stone pants” in the original TCW.
Obviously there are a TON of ways to add variety into the wardrobe by supplementing TCW with additional pieces (which is what the inspirational creative colleagues did with extreme flair) but I think it’s fair to say that sticking to “your” neutrals is likely to result in a more boring core wardrobe that needs more jazzing up than the original. The personalized TCW is a bit like: OK, we’re having chicken every day for dinner this week, or alternating chicken and beef, so what am I going to add to it to keep it from being boring and monotonous? Whereas the original TCW is a more like: we’re having chicken or beef some days, but also pork and salmon and lamb and sausage and chickpea based meals other days. Even if those meals are very plain, there’s more inherent variety in the core proteins.
Ezzy says
That’s a really good point. Personalizing this CAN make it more “uniform”. However, I humbly submit to you, from a color lover, my version of a personalized, late fall, work (business casual), common wardrobe. Keeping in mind the “definition” would be wearing at least one of these pieces every day.
3 t-shirts –> long sleeve thin sweaters: mustard crew-neck, orange/green/pink floral v-neck on white background, black v-neck.
next row: buttondowns –> “dressy-ish blouses”: blue men’s button-down, white with small black geometric patterned blouse, black blouse with bowtie in back and small white bird print.
next row: heavier stand-alone or 2nd layers —> Navy turtleneck, maroon v-neck sweater, black cardigan
next row: bottoms –> Jeans; grey trousers, black trousers.
this gives me a TON of variety, while still being ‘basic’ enough to have full looks out of these components, or add others/ jewelry/scarves to punch it up. It works for me because 1- I dont really do “t-shirts”, but long sleeve “sweaters” now a-days are so thin, they function as shirts. 2- I like color on my top half at work (home is a little more of a restrained color palette – WFH was eye-opening!) 3 – for work, trousers all the way, 4 – I don’t prefer a solid core of color. I am highly unlikely to wear the black v-neck with the black trousers (although i’m OK with navy turtleneck and jeans), so that is the only “unwearable” combination.
A few “french 5” – one for that warmer, early-fall weather and one for more cardigans to layer for late-fall, and this could span work wear from Sept – Nov for me. (After thanksgiving, need to remove the oranges and mustards and add reds and greens…)
What do you all think? would this even count as a core common wardrobe? or is it just too much? I’d love to hear your opinions!
Sally in St Paul says
Ezzy, that’s fascinating! I’m not sure if it’s a core common wardrobe, but it certainly sounds like you have found YOUR core wardrobe for the season!
Julie says
Hi Janice,
I miss running into you since we moved. Your posts are entertaining and informative. I can picture your beautiful smile when I red them. Thank you
Janice says
(((big hugs)))
Nancy says
I can put this capsule together without having to shop!!!
Lucky me and thank you for next week’s wardrobe!!!
Jennifer says
Thank you, Janice, for breaking it down in this helpful post. I’ve read it through with an open mind. I plan to reread it with my notebook in hand!
Have a wonderful weekend!
Wendy says
This is a fabulous post. My roadblock is that I wear “warm”colours, as an autumn colour palate. So, generally speaking, black, grey and white are out for me. I get that ivory and light khaki and some denim will still work to substitute, but what replaces black?? Dark brown? Dark green? Won’t the whole thing lose its “cool factor” with those colours? I don’t mind black on my bottom half, but the column-of-colour concept becomes difficult if I can’t wear black turtlenecks and cardigans next to my face without looking wan and ill.
Wendy
Jennifer says
Hey Wendy!
I’ve seen some color systems suggest choosing the darkest color in your hair for a neutral. Also, the color of the very out edge of your iris (limbal ring)can also be a good neutral. Just offering some ideas. ?
Alison M Gunn says
I am of the school of thought that believes that a color that makes you look sickly is not cool on anyone. That the above set of options for creatives is currently thought to look ‘cool’ (but not by every generation) does not make those choices suitable for everyone. There’s a kind of ‘high school’ thing that happens when you think the cool kids are going to snub you cause you’re not wearing that black turtleneck. Less often noticed is how wan the blonde girl wearing that particular turtleneck actually looks; the insecure high school kid is too busy idolizing the blonde’s supposedly inherent ‘coolness.’ In my opinion, having seen plenty of people looking like death warmed over in colors that do not suit them, I know that cool cannot be bought off the rack; the look must suit *you*. A lovely warm-hued combination, tonal or all one color, would look ravishing on the warm-hued person. I personally would forget about trying to emulate someone else’s version of cool and find your own. :-) Fit has a lot to do with looking chic, too. Nothing looks ‘cool’ when it’s weirdly baggy or tight.
Beth T says
Well said Allison. Black near my face makes me look like death warmed up. These are only suggestions based on observation. Rather than following the crowd, those of us who read TVF have the tools and knowledge to adapt the common wardrobe in the colours and styles that suit us.
Until my 30’s, I only wore dresses and skirts. That was my style, though I suffered from cold legs and feet. I envied people who looked good in trousers and jeans with boots. I never did suit trousers until I discovered wide leg trousers and roomy jeans which are my version. I’ve even found boots to fit.
Janice originally saw these common wardrobe staples on people who then wore a jazzy coat or jacket over the top to get them noticed. Wearing the same clothes as everyone else makes you feel like you belong. It identifies you as part of a tribe – a bit like school uniform. The clothes underneath do not compete with the loud coat on top or the jazzy footwear.
Yes there are teenage trends but I know creatives in their late 50’s who still wear plain clothes in navy, grey, black without embellishment. But I also know creatives who dye their hair and wear brightly coloured garments.
For me, I would sub navy trousers for black, keep the grey in shades from very light to dark and add in shades of purple/plum. Not a white or denim shirt included.
Janice has provided us with the tools to create our own identity rather than follow the crowd. But there will always be days when pulling on a pair of trousers and a jumper will see me dressed.
Anna Brooksby says
I am a spring, so cool colors don’t work for me either. I prefer to substitute navy and camel for black and gray. Is there something like either of those in your palette?
Wendy says
Hi Jennifer, Alison, Beth, Anna,
Good points, well taken. Thanks for your input. I am also frustrated by the fact that it’s easier to find blacks that match for this wardrobe than to find, say, browns or greens (in fact, browns are particularly hard to find at all, as Janice has pointed out in her Six Scarves series). I love the column-of-colour look though, so I’ll keep trying!
Wendy
Teri says
Hi Janice.
I am intrigued with your term ‘ whappage’,
And while I am not sure what it means, my guess would be that it implies something that makes you look and feel fantastic???
I have often called my own khaki pants, “Dad pants” when I saw that what I was wearing was basically the same cut….and I felt about as flattered….as what my father was wearing.
What would khakis with” whappage” look like??? Any idea?